We stopped at this small
town called San Juan. Initially, we were
thinking a coke and some cookies, but as we talked to the store owner, we found
out they actually had a hotel/hostel. We
were pretty beat up by the road, it was probably 2:00p or 2:30p and we decided
to see if there was a room at the inn.
The Hostel at San Juan
The hotel was very clean
and a lot larger than we expected in this tiny little town. There were absolutely no guests, so we were
surprised when the woman said she had only one single room with double
beds. We weren’t equipped to argue with
her, so we took it. It also was fairly
expensive at around $60 US. But we found
out later this included dinner and breakfast. Eventually a whole group of German tourist
arrived to take all the rest of the rooms and we found out they had actually
given us the room they had reserved for the four tour drivers. We very much enjoyed our stay at the hostel
in San Juan.
The next day we asked the proprietor about directions to Ollanguy
(O’ ya wee) the town on the Chilean border.
He said the roads were good and all we had to do was to stay to the
right and we would be ok. These
directions lacked clarity and in some cases they were just absolutely
wrong. And the road was a mess. Lots of rocks, pot holes, sand, salt and
again the thing I was learning to love the most, wash boards. Never, never trust free advice.
My front tire caught the
loose sand and spun up into the berm
The distance to Ollangue
was probably 40 or 50 miles. But given
the misdirection and the quality of the roads, we didn’t arrive at the border
until the afternoon. This included a
ride off I had where I had avoided a rock on a very sandy track and then
followed the sand up the side where the bike stayed until Chuck arrived to help
me pull it out. The sand had also pulled
of one of my saddlebags that needed a little “adjustment” to make it fit right
again. This route also included a
railway crossing but not like most. The
road just led up to the rails and we had to cross the rails without the benefit
of any lead up, just bare rails. This is
the MAIN road from Bolivia to Chile????
Ollangue
Directions at most
border crossings are unclear. This
border was no different. We looked for
the passport processing office (usually the Police office) but could see
nothing. We saw the Aduna for processing
vehicles, we drove the a small pedestrian opening and went in. He asked for our paperwork and was very
efficient in processing our vehicles out of Bolivia. When we asked about processing our passport,
he just shook his head and pointed in the direction of the Chile office.
So the Chilean
imagracion is about 3 or 4 miles across the border. We were thinking he meant the Bolivian passport
office was there. We rode across the
divide and of course found no Bolivian office, so we rode back. This time there was another person in the
Aduna office who pointed to a small Bolivian flag, across the tracks sticking
up from behind a train. There we found
the police officer who processed our passports.
Nothing is ever easy!
Aduna at the Bolivia side of the border
Policia on the other side of the tracks
Chile was very much more
efficient. After going in the wrong
door, I met a receiving agent. She asked
for all our information and processed our passports and motorcycles. Afterwards we noticed that she had put down
Honda’s instead of KTM’s for our motorcycles.
I guess it’s because we bought our bikes at Wild West Honda … hmmm.
We did not have enough
gas to make it to the next major town Calama, but we had been told that
Ollangue had a gas station. So we went
into town looking for gas. It turns out
the station had closed a long time before, but we were told that a Hostel in
town sold gasoline out of the back. When
we found the hostel we were told they would have gas in a hour to come back
after lunch. When we returned we decided
to stay for the night.
Gasoline from a barrel
Here we met Pedro. Pedro was from Santiago and owns a trucking company specializing in the transport of copper ore from Bolivia to Chile to be processed. One of the nicest guys, one could ever hope to meet. He let us tie into his cell phone wireless to use the internet and then spent an enormous amount of time giving us advice, directions and descriptions of different places to visit in Chile. We had dinner and breakfast with Pedro and his crew.
Pedro
We also met a group of
five bikers traveling from Brazil. They
were riding BMW’s and an Africa Twin. It
looked like a couple of them had had a get off or two as the bikes were scraped
up and pieces missing. They had ridden
from Uyuni to Ollyangue in one day, what had taken us two. We didn’t speak the same language but we did
speak motorcycle! We took pictures before
we left the next morning.
Leoes o' oeste (Lions of the
West) with Pedro and us.
On to Calama.
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